Certification
Certificate of Authenticity from Françoise Cailles dated April 28, 2015, stating that the “ananas” ear clips are René Boivin, 1944, from a design by Juliette Moutard.
Biography
René Boivin founded his company in the 1890s. After his death in 1917, his wife, Jeanne Boivin—the sister of fashion designer Paul Poiret—presided over the firm. Assisted by her daughter Germaine and designers Suzanne Belperron and Juliette Moutard, Jeanne oversaw production of some of the most inspired jewelry of the twentieth century. The house is known for pieces with a strong, sculptural style as well as designs based on nature. After Jeanne’s death in 1959, Germaine Boivin and Juliette Moutard ran the company until it was sold in the 1970s.
Significance
The jeweler René Boivin, known for originality and exceptional quality, took a dramatic turn in 1917 when Jeanne Boivin took over creative control of the company. She designed her own pieces and hired talented female designers who helped lead the firm through its most innovative years. By the 1930s, with the help of such designers as Suzanne Belperron and Juliette Moutard, Boivin became known for modern and sculptural jewelry with bold forms and rounded edges that were often inspired by nature.
Breaking from the flat geometry of the earlier Art Deco style, Boivin’s eye-catching designs were revolutionary in their bright colors and unusual proportions. The pieces drew inspiration from sea creatures, flowers, animals, and fruits. Among the most noteworthy designs are the tranche or melon-slice cuff, the starfish brooch, and jewels designed as leaves and flowers. For these ear clips created by Juliette Moutard for Boivin, the design was inspired by the leaves of ananas, or a pineapple. The pointed platinum leaves are cleverly set with brilliant-cut diamonds with a small base set with clusters of diamonds. These ear clips are creative and playful and the simple use of materials of platinum and diamonds allow for the sculptural quality to emerge.
The Boivin company never closely aligned with the mainstream jewelers of place Vendôme, but was drawn to the modernist designers who developed the Art Moderne movement. Boivin’s pieces were a balance of large sculptural forms with fluid and voluptuous curves. Juliette Moutard was a significant contributor to the success of the firm and stayed with them for her entire career, working closing with Jeanne Boivin. Along with other female jewelry designers, Moutard created jewels for Maison Boivin that melded together originality and femininity. These ear clips, designed by Juliette Moutard for Maison Boivin, are a beautiful and iconic example by this exceptional designer.
