A ring bezel-set in the center with a modified step-cut amethyst, the shoulders and sides cascading with decreasing lines of bezel-set rectangular cabochon chrysoprase; mounted in silver, with French assay marks
- Maker’s mark for Grœné et Darde
- Size 6 3/4
Certification
Olivier Baroin Certification of Authenticity No.180928 Belp/Mrj/Agtt stating that the ring was manufactured by Grœné et Darde workshop between 1933 and 1937 for Suzanne Belperron.
Biography
Along with Chanel and Schiaparelli, Suzanne Belperron was one of the innovators of modern dress and jewelry. Belperron began her career in 1919 designing for René Boivin. Her 1933 partnership with Bernard Herz (and later his son Jean) allowed her to develop her bold, imaginative style mixing hardstones, such as chalcedony and rock crystal, with precious stones, such as diamonds and sapphires. The elegant beauty became a favorite jeweler to the fashionable elite including Diana Vreeland, Colette, Elsa Schiaparelli, and Wallis, Duchess of Windsor. Belperron retired in 1974 and continued consulting on jewelry designs until her death in 1983.
Significance
Considered one of the most original and fiercely talented jewelry designers of modern era, Suzanne Belperron created jewels that defied time, artistic movement, and convention. Her work can be instantly recognized from the use of volume, fluidity, and lines. Belperron received significant praise during her lifetime, often gracing the pages of Vogue and Harper’s Bazaar and collected an extraordinary client roster. With all her success, Belperron maintained the intimate tradition of bespoke jewelry by not opening a retail store or advertising and was completely consumed with the production of each jewel. From beginning to end, she would work with her workshops and examine each piece daily to ensure it maintained her original concept.
Belperron was never confined by tradition and had a love for semi-precious stones and unique color combinations. For this ring, an unusual color palette was used with the deep rich purple amethyst and opaque green chrysoprase. The volume of the ring is extraordinary with the amethyst balanced in size by the cascading bands of square-cut chrysoprase. Although the scale is large, there is fluidity in the lines and a bold use of color creating an inherent elegance to the piece. The amethyst is a traditional shape, but cut uniquely on the crown with bowed facets creating a curved surface on the stone, a mix between cabochon and faceted, adding a touch of femininity to the piece.
Belperron’s work captured the spirit of the avant-garde modern world and still remains modern and chic today. Dating from between1933 to 1937, just after Belperron left Boivin, this is an early jewel from the artist and as such it is extremely rare. This ring is a superb example of the keen eye of a design icon that pioneered modern jewelry design.
