SOLD
A bracelet designed as a series of onyx rings spaced with diamond-set platinum bars, the clasp designed as a fluted onyx ball sided by diamond-set platinum sections; mounted in platinum, with French assay mark
- 79 old European-cut diamonds
- Signed Boucheron, Paris, and with maker’s mark
- Length: 7 3/16 inches
Biography
Frédéric Boucheron opened his Paris jewelry salon in 1858 at the Palais Royal. In 1893, Boucheron was the first jeweler to move to Place Vendôme, at number 26, where they still operate today. From the beginning, Boucheron was known for groundbreaking work. His creativity, and that of his son Louis, earned accolades at international exhibitions including the 1867 Paris Universal Exposition, the 1893 World’s Columbian Exposition in Chicago, and the 1925 Paris Exposition des Arts Décoratifs et Industriels Modernes. The house remained in the family until acquired by Gucci Group in 2000. Today, Boucheron has 34 shops around the globe selling perfume, watches, and jewelry.
Significance
During the Art Deco period, Louis Boucheron created works of astonishing beauty, particularly the pieces created for and around the time of the 1925 Paris Exposition des Arts Décoratifs et Industriels Modernes. The iconic works of the firm from this era feature bold forms and playful explorations of color and geometry. These modern jewels were created to complement the changing fashions of the era. Gone were the constricting clothes of earlier generations, replaced with sumptuous silk bias-cut evening gowns with plunging necklines and no sleeves, leaving arms bare for beautiful bracelets.
This flexible bracelet features black onyx rings connected by lines of platinum set with diamonds. A study in opposites, this bracelet juxtaposes black with white and round with straight creating a balanced whole. The clasp, designed as a fluted onyx ball with a plunger, is an ingenious and subtle design element. When clasped to the wrist, the fluted bead becomes the central element of this strong geometric design.
While Boucheron made a few other examples of bracelets incorporating onyx circles in the 1920s, this is the only known example of this unusual clasp. An iconic Art Deco jewel, this bracelet is just as wearable today as when it was first created and would be an important addition to any collection.
