Gold “Vé” Bracelet by Hermès, Paris, circa 1950, Manufactured by Jacques Lenfant for Georges Lenfant

Literature

Lenfant, Jacques. Le livre de la chaîne. Paris: Editions Scriptar, 1996, p. 41.

Biography

In 1837, Thierry Hermès established a workshop creating high-end equestrian harnesses for European noblemen. Eventually his son and grandsons took over and expanded to saddles and then their first bag in 1900. They made saddles for the Tsar of Russia and had exclusive rights to the use of the zipper in France. In the 1920s, they expanded to clothing and accessories creating their first bracelet in 1927. In the 1930s, they created the ubiquitous Hermès silk scarves and the Kelly Bag. In the 1950s, Hermès introduced fine jewelry. Many pieces were created by Jacques Lenfant, a famed maker of innovative gold jewelry for all the French houses including Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels. Today the Hermès name is synonymous with luxury and has a strong global presence.

Significance

The 1950s were a playful decade marked by economic expansion and the rise of leisure time activities. Television, automobiles, and rock and roll became ubiquitous. Everything was movement. Christian Dior’s “New Look,” featuring full skirts, tight waists, and rounded shoulders appealed to glamorous women like Grace Kelly, Millicent Rogers, and the Duchess of Windsor. The new fashions exaggerated the silhouette and called for bold oversized jewelry as a complement. In 1956, Vogue featured such a bracelet on the cover, perfectly balancing the effortlessly chic outfit. The Lenfant studio in Paris was the master craftsman creating the perfect gold link bracelets for all the finest houses.  

Beginning in the 1950s, Jacques Lenfant became known for his superb goldwork, with each necklace and bracelet more complex than the last. His work explored movement and texture and this bracelet is one of his most impressive with wonderful heft and exquisite movement. The “Vé” link, as Lenfant called it, is created from a single long oval link that is cut in half at an angle, one side flipped over, and then rewelded to create a v-shaped link, which he also called a “folded” link. The links are then connected at the center of the V, creating a supple spine-like movement. Impressively, with one end fixed in place, this bracelet can be turned completely over. The flexibility makes it wonderful to wear. Jaques Lenfant’s book Le livre de la chaîne notes that this design was “Modèle exclusif Hermès” meaning it was only made for this company.

Lenfant looked at chains as a “harmony of sounds, shapes and textures” as he wrote in his book. He referred to the “rustle of rolling parts, which slide against each other [like] chain bells.” By considering the construction of chains from all the senses, Lenfant became a master of construction, as shown by this exquisite bracelet. A sought-after icon of midcentury design, this bracelet would be an essential element of any collection.