Gold, Platinum, and Diamond “Torsade” Cuff by Suzanne Belperron for René Boivin, circa 1950

Certification

Certificate of Authenticity from René Boivin, dated November 30, 2022, stating that the “torsade” bracelet is René Boivin, circa 1950, from a design by Suzanne Belperron.

Biography

René Boivin founded his company in the 1890s. After his death in 1917, his wife, Jeanne Boivin—the sister of fashion designer Paul Poiret—presided over the firm. Assisted by her daughter Germaine and designers Suzanne Belperron and Juliette Moutard, Jeanne oversaw production of some of the most inspired jewelry of the twentieth century. -e house is known for pieces with a strong, sculptural style as well as designs based on nature. After Jeanne’s death in 1959, Germaine Boivin and Juliette Moutard ran the company until it was sold in the 1970s.

Significance

Jeanne Boivin was an unusual force in the jewelry world. -e sister of Paul Poiret, she married jeweler René Boivin just as he was establishing his business in the 1890s. -eir fortunes were closely linked to Poiret. -e gregarious couturier loved parties and realized their value in building his business. -e Boivins were at these dazzling parties wearing jewels and meeting aristocrats, artists, and intellectuals who would become clients. -ey become known as the “jewelers of the intelligentsia.” When René passed away in 1917, at a time when it was nearly unheard of for women to own and operate a business Jeanne did both. And while Poiret revolutionized fashion, Jeanne did the same for jewelry design, creating an iconic style of bold jewelry rooted in curvaceous forms.

Jeanne served as a role model and mentor for Suzanne Belperron, one of the greatest modern jewelry designers. Belperron was friends with the Boivin’s daughter, Germaine, who made the timely introduction to Jeanne who employed her in 1921. By 1923, Belperron was named co-director, and they worked closely together until Belperron left in 1931. -is bracelet was a design drawn by Belperron featuring puffy alternating segments of polished gold and pavé diamonds creating a “torsade” or rope twist motif. While passementerie or fabric trimmings have long been an inspiration for jewelry design, the beautifully rendered oversized construction creates an unusual sense of volume while the juxtaposition of polished gold and faceted stones creates visual interest.

Belperron used the torsade motif in a bracelet created for couturier Elsa Schiaparelli, who wore it in Vogue in 1933. Millicent Rogers was also pictured wearing a Belperron “torsade” while speaking to Schiaparelli at Lady Mendel’s. Perhaps she was trying on the magnificent design, or maybe she ordered her own. In any event, the “torsade” appealed to the most artistic, fashion- forward women on the period who appreciated Boivin and Belperron for their innovative designs, and because they were groundbreaking businesswomen who interpreted the changes occurring in society, fashion and the decorative arts through jewelry design. -is important cuff carries the touch of two great female jewelers and would look spectacular on any wrist.