Art Deco Ruby and Diamond Strap Bracelet by Cartier, London, circa 1930
Art Deco Ruby and Diamond Strap Bracelet by Cartier, London, circa 1930
A flexible strap bracelet composed of four panels, two with pavé-set round diamonds, baguette diamond pyramids, and square calibré-cut rubies in a geometric composition, the other two panels centering oval rubies accented with round diamonds and calibré-cut rubies, with baguette and square diamonds radiating from the sides, with a concealed clasp; mounted in platinum; in original fitted Cartier box
- Signed Cartier London, numbered
- Measurements: 7 ½ x ½ inch
Biography
Cartier was founded in Paris in 1847 by Louis-François Cartier. His three grandsons, Louis, Pierre, and Jacques, built the house into a famous international jewelry empire serving royalty, Hollywood stars, and socialites. Cartier has created some of the most important jewelry and objects of art of the twentieth century with many iconic designs such as mystery clocks, Tutti Frutti jewelry and the Panthère line. In 1983, The Cartier Collection was established with the objective of acquiring important pieces that trace the firm’s artistic evolution. Today, Cartier has 200 stores in 125 countries.
Significance
Passionate and dramatic, deep ruby red was an important color in the Art
Deco period. From sumptuous color drenched interiors with deep red damask wallpaper and red velvet couches to two-color geometric exhibition posters printed in red and black the color captured the monumental experience of being alive at a time when social, technological, and artistic change was quickly influencing daily life around the world. Designers at Cartier embraced the simplified red and white color palette as an important tool for expressing dramatic geometry through jewelry.
Created as four segments, this incredible bracelet is a juxtaposition of restrained geometry placed against ebullient chaos. Two of the panels feature rubies and diamonds in an enclosed rectangle set in a linear way, the two connecting panels, however, angle the baguette diamonds, breaking the linear edge and creating the feeling of an explosion of light. The overall effect is a dramatic and draws attention to the masterful use of varied gemstone cuts. The deep red rubies form the centerpiece of the design, with diamonds flowing around the edges.
The deep red was so important to Cartier that in the 1920s they solidified their iconic red box color as a symbol of luxury and taste. Prior to the 1920s they used various colors, but by 1930 the decidedly important color was a distinct ruby red, as found in this bracelet. Pierre-Auguste Renoir said of the color, “I want a red to be sonorous, to sound like a bell. If it doesn’t turn out that way, I add more reds and other colors until I get it.” The red in this impeccable bracelet is distinct and clear with a beautiful tone. Brought to life when worn, this iconic jewel would be an important addition to any collection.
