Gold Oversized Oval Link Bracelet by Cartier, Paris, circa 1950, Manufactured by Gross et Cie
Gold Oversized Oval Link Bracelet by Cartier, Paris, circa 1950, Manufactured by Gross et Cie
A polished gold bracelet featuring four large oval links curved to fit against the wrist, connected by four smaller oval links, the last one containing a concealed clasp; mounted in 18-karat yellow gold
- Signed Cartier Paris and numbered with maker’s mark for Gros et Cie
- Measurements: 7 ½ x 1 3/8 inches
Literature
cf. Vogue, March 15, 1955. cf. Vogue, October 15, 1956 (cover).
Biography
Cartier was founded in Paris in 1847 by Louis-François Cartier. His three grandsons, Louis, Pierre, and Jacques, built the house into a famous international jewelry empire serving royalty, Hollywood stars, and socialites. Cartier has created some of the most important jewelry and objects of art of the twentieth century with many iconic designs such as mystery clocks, Tutti Frutti jewelry and the Panthère line. In 1983, The Cartier Collection was established with the objective of acquiring important pieces that trace the firm’s artistic evolution. Today, Cartier has 200 stores in 125 countries.
Significance
Interlocking loops of gold have been found in jewelry for thousands of years. Dating back more than 4500 years, several rare and exquisite artifacts from the Royal Tombs of Ur, including the elaborate headdress of Queen Puabi feature this motif. It is a simple and effective way to make flexible wearable designs from rigid gold. In Renaissance paintings of the fifteenth century, powerful men and women are often depicted draped in robust gold chains. In the sixteenth century, when the pocket watch was invented and became an essential accessory, the utilitarian and beautiful watch chain developed alongside it to protect the timepiece from falls and as a powerful accessory, visible when draped from the pocket to the buttonhole.
The oversized links that are popular today first appeared in the 1940s, when jewelry became bold, large, and playful. Considered as one of the most popular jewels, bracelets during this time were mostly made of gold due to World War II wartime restrictions and the popularity of the material continued long after the war ended. For Cartier, gold bracelets became a popular item, and the designers created endless ingenious designs utilizing polished gold. This bracelet was manufactured by Gross et Cie, an important French company who created pieces for Cartier mostly in the 1940s and 1950s. One of the most ubiquitous chain styles in history involves small ovals linking large ovals, as in this bracelet, but Cartier and Gros made subtle design choices marking the piece as superior. The oversized oval links are curved to fit perfectly elegantly the wrist. And the smaller flattened oval links that hold the piece together take on a rounded, pillowy form. The overall effect is refined and beautiful.
Although Cartier is often associated with important gemstones, the company also created iconic pieces, such as this bracelet, that were effortlessly chic. Some of the most fashionable women of the midcentury wore gold link bracelets, including Millicent Rogers, Marlene Dietrich, Greta Garbo, and the Duchess of Windsor, reflecting a glamorous era of independence and industry. Cartier gold link bracelets appeared on the cover of and in fashion spreads in Vogue magazine. This exquisite and versatile bracelet would be an important addition to any collection.
