Gold Tank Bracelet by Hermès, Paris, circa 1950

Biography

In 1837, Thierry Hermès established a workshop creating high-end equestrian harnesses for European noblemen. Eventually his son and grandsons took over and expanded to saddles and then their first bag in 1900. They made saddles for the Tsar of Russia and had exclusive rights to the use of the zipper in France. In the 1920s, they expanded to clothing and accessories creating their first bracelet in 1927. In the 1930s, they created the ubiquitous Hermès silk scarves and the Kelly Bag. In the 1950s, Hermès introduced fine jewelry. Many pieces were created by Jacques Lenfant, a famed maker of innovative gold jewelry for all the French houses including Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels. Today the Hermès name is synonymous with luxury and has a strong global presence.

Significance

In 1945, as the world emerged from the devastation of World War II, society began to shift dramatically. Art movements like Pop Art, Minimalism, and Conceptual Art were a wild deviation from earlier technique-heavy styles. With the world experiencing an economic boom and shift toward middle class suburbanism and consumerism, luxury makers needed to rethink their offerings. Hermès had a long and storied history offering leather goods, and under the leadership of Robert Dumas, son-in-law of Émile-Maurice Hermès, the company expanded into silk scarves, handbags, and fine jewelry.

The origin of Hermès in 1837 was harnesses, and when they turned to creating jewelry in 1927, they drew from the harnesses, buckles, and bits they had been making in leather and metal for nearly a century. Their first forays into jewelry making recreated elements of functional objects onto wearable accessories. They carried this exploration with them into fine jewelry in the 1950s, when this phenomenal tank was created. Tank bracelets first appeared after World War I with the finest French houses offering gem-set gold or platinum models based on tank treads or other industrial parts. After World War II, the artists’ fascination with technology and tools returned. This bracelet draws from the Pop-Art tendency towards cartoonish exaggeration, with oversized rolls of gold evoking the cylinders that tank tracks wrap around. The bracelet also explores rigorous minimalism, needing nothing except the repeated c-shape of the cylinder to achieve perfection.

Throughout their history Hermès has been known for their impeccable production and use of only high-quality materials. This iconic tank bracelet is a testament to their eye for beauty and perfect construction. They took the idea of an industrial part and elevated it into pure art. This exceedingly rare and wearable design would be an important addition to any collection.