Art Deco Diamond Chandelier Earrings by Cartier, London, circa 1930
Art Deco Diamond Chandelier Earrings by Cartier, London, circa 1930
A pair of articulated pendant earrings with a geometric composition of diamonds suspending a fringe of old and baguette-cut diamonds; mounted in platinum; with assay marks; in the original fitted Cartier case
- Old and baguette-cut diamonds, weighing 7.50 carats total
- Signed with maker’s mark JC
- Measurements: 2¾ x 7/8 inches
Biography
Cartier was founded in Paris in 1847 by Louis-François Cartier. His three grandsons, Louis, Pierre, and Jacques, built the house into a famous international jewelry empire serving royalty, Hollywood stars, and socialites. Cartier has created some of the most important jewelry and objects of art of the twentieth century with many iconic designs such as mystery clocks, Tutti Frutti jewelry and the Panthère line. In 1983, The Cartier Collection was established with the objective of acquiring important pieces that trace the firm’s artistic evolution. Today, Cartier has 200 stores in 125 countries.
Significance
Five decades from the founding of Cartier, the three brothers Louis, Pierre and Jacques were poised to expand the reach of the storied firm. Their father, Alfred, was the sole heir of founder Louis-François, but his grandsons were in a very different circumstance and figured out a plan that allowed them each a way to thrive. The oldest brother, Louis, took charge of Paris, while Pierre went to New York, and the youngest brother, Jacques, expanded to London. “The sons, divided, conquered” wrote journalist Ian Sansom. “Over the next few years, Cartier became jewelers to the Rockefellers, Vanderbilts, the Fords, the Morgans, King Edward VII, King Zog of Albania, and King Chulalongkorn of Siam.”
In 1902, Cartier established a London branch at the invitation of Edward VII who felt guests to his coronation should not have to cross the channel to place their orders. The soon-to-be-king ordered 27 tiaras. He proclaimed Cartier “the jeweler of kings and the king of jewelers” and issued a royal warrant in 1904. This early start was the perfect representation of the differences in the London clients. The focus was largely on royal and society events with important jewels that proclaimed power and beauty.
These magnificent earrings were made around 1930 in the Cartier branch. The mark “JC” indicates Jacques Cartier who took particular care to create jewels with a carefully considered geometric construction. He selected the perfect assemblage of stones for each piece. These earrings feature a strong Art Deco design utilizing myriad diamond cuts to create a clamp-like form at the top suspending a delicate diamond fringe composed of baguette diamonds and round diamonds set in square mountings, turned to create a directional shape. The resulting earrings are meant to catch the light with each movement of the wearer, creating a mesmerizing moment capturing all the drama of a royal court event. These magnificent earrings would be an important addition to any collection.
