Pair of Gold “Paillette” Hoop Earrings by Georges Lenfant for Mauboussin, Paris, circa 1970

Biography

Mauboussin has a long design history, dating back to 1827 in Paris. In 1896, Georges Mauboussin assumed control of the business from his uncle Noury, and they entered a modern era of success. They exhibited at major international expositions in the late nineteenth and first half of the twentieth centuries, receiving a Grand Prix at the 1925 Exposition des Arts Décoratifs et Industriels Modernes in Paris. They are most known for their fantastic Art Deco designs, some in the rectilinear style, and the most iconic were the colorful foliate designs known as Tutti Frutti. Today, they maintain locations throughout the world with a flagship store in New York City.

Significance

Hoop earrings are an ancient and valued form of adornment. The first known hoop earrings originated in Nubia around 2500 BCE and were made in gold, bronze, and silver. Frescoes on Santorini dating back to 1600 BCE depict both women and men wearing hoop earrings, and soldiers wore a single hoop. Egyptian royalty including queens and pharaohs like Nefertiti, Hatshepsut, Tutankhamen and Cleopatra wore gold hoops. Light and comfortable, but with a big visual impact, hoops suggest a circle, a symbol of infinity, unity, and the sun.

Over the centuries the popularity of hoops has waxed and waned depending on fashion and hairstyles. In the 1960s they saw a resurgence with entertainers including Cher and Diana Ross, and by the 1970s they were embraced by stylish people alongside the slinky spangled fashions of disco culture. Nightclubs like Studio 54 encouraged people to express themselves through fashion and dance without rules or judgement. Against this backdrop jewelry became textured, oversized, and optically strong. Hoops were the perfect accessory.

While Mauboussin was recognized in the Art Deco period for their robust, layered geometric designs frequently centered around diamonds, their advertising in the midcentury period introduced a new element into their oeuvre: woven gold. For these earrings they turned to the most important maker of gold pieces, the Georges Lenfant workshop. From the 1950s to the 1970s, Jacques Lenfant (son of Georges) created superb goldwork, with each necklace and bracelet more complex than the last. He was highly sought-after by the great French houses including Cartier, Hermès, and Van Cleef & Arpels. His work explored movement and texture. These earrings feature his iconic woven “paillette” texture, meaning sequins, acknowledging the way they glitter in the light. The texture lent itself to the earring design that needed to be light enough to wear, but also bold and eye catching. Lenfant said jewels should be “in every gesture of life.” This rare and desirable pair of “paillette” hoop earrings is beautiful on the ear and would be an iconic addition to any collection.