Gold “Paillette” Double Curb Link Necklace by Jacques Lenfant for Georges Lenfant, Paris, circa 1950

Biography

The Lenfant family is recognized for the master craftsman who produced exceptional jewelry for the finest houses in the twentieth century. Georges began as a Cartier work master before registering his own mark in 1909. His son Jacques joined him as a child in 1915 and became one of the most highly sought-after manufacturers from the 1950s to 1970s. He was particularly known for innovative gold jewelry, creating complicated and bold chains for the neck and wrist for the finest maisons, including Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, Sandoz, and Tiffany & Co., to name a few. The company closed in the 1990s, and Jacques wrote a book titled Le livre de la chaîne detailing his unparalleled knowledge of making gold chains.

Significance

For thousands of years, elaborate gold chains have been a mark of power and loyalty. Since the Middle Ages in England, the livery collar, or chain of office, typically a thick gold chain, has been draped across the shoulders of rulers and was favored by Henry VIII. His first wife, Catherine of Aragon was painted in the fifteenth century wearing a surprisingly modern gold chain link necklace. Gold has been a favored metal for its beautiful warm color, its durability, and rarity.

During the 1950s the gold necklace became an important wardrobe staple. The privation of the years during World War II meant that jewelers had to innovate with the materials they had on hand, platinum was not obtainable, and stones were difficult to get. A well-designed gold necklace was a worthy investment. The finest houses turned to the most important maker of gold pieces, the Georges Lenant workshop, who entered the 1950s with innovative new designs in gold that were wearable for any occasion. From the 1950s to the 1970s, Georges son, Jacques Lenfant created superb goldwork, with each necklace and bracelet more complex than the last. He was highly sought-after by the great French houses including Cartier, Hermes, and Van Cleef & Arpels. His work explored movement and texture, and this necklace features his iconic woven “paillette” design, meaning sequins, acknowledging the way the chain glitters in the light. The beautifully constructed chain features two rows of interlocking curb links that graduate in size, a beautiful and powerful design.

Lenfant looked at chains as a “harmony of sounds, shapes and textures” as he wrote in his book Le livre de la chaîne. He referred to the “rustle of rolling parts, which slide against each other [like] chain bells” and said that jewels should be “in every gesture of life.” By considering the construction of chains from all the senses, Lenfant created masterpieces, as shown by this exquisite necklace, a rare and desirable addition to any collection.