Art Deco Rock Crystal and Diamond Brooch by Mauboussin, Paris, 1935
Art Deco Rock Crystal and Diamond Brooch by Mauboussin, Paris, 1935
A brooch composed of stepped rock crystal panels arranged in an asymmetrical geometric form; featuring motifs set with old European-cut, rose-cut, and baguette-cut diamonds; the diamonds arranged in pavé and linear patterns that follow the architectural outline of the jewel; mounted in platinum and 18K gold; in an original Mauboussin case
- French hallmarks for 18K gold and platinum, numbered
- Measurements: 2 1/2 × 1 3/8 inches
Certification
Certificate of Authenticity from Marguerite de Cerval, dated September 9, 2025, stating the brooch is recorded in the Mauboussin archive as created in January 1935.
Biography
Mauboussin has a long design history, dating back to 1827 in Paris. In 1896, Georges Mauboussin assumed control of the business from his uncle Noury, and they entered a modern era of success. They exhibited at major international expositions in the late nineteenth and first half of the twentieth centuries, receiving a Grand Prix at the 1925 Exposition des Arts Décoratifs et Industriels Modernes in Paris. They are most known for their fantastic Art Deco designs, some in the rectilinear style, and the most iconic, the colorful foliate designs known as Tutti Frutti. Today, they maintain locations throughout the world with a flagship store in New York City.
Significance
The Art Deco period was a time when jewelers embraced a modern visual language, defined by geometry and the architectural ideals of the machine age. Materials such as rock crystal became central to this exploration for its ability to convey precision, lightness, and sharply cut silhouettes. Mauboussin, like many French houses, experimented with stepped forms, intersecting planes, and the balanced interplay of transparent and reflective surfaces.
In the years following their success at the 1925 Exposition Internationale des Arts Decoratifs et Industriels Modernes, Mauboussin produced a series of jewels characterized by geometric construction and restrained monochromatic palettes. Rock crystal provided a compelling medium for these designs, offering crisp edges and an optical purity that highlighted the sleek arrangements of diamonds. The stepped crystal elements in this brooch create depth and dimension, while the pavé and linear diamond motifs integrate seamlessly into the architectural framework.
Rock crystal jewels by Mauboussin from the 1930s are exceedingly rare, and examples documented in the firm’s archives are especially significant. Designed in 1935 and recorded in Mauboussin’s books, this brooch reflects the house’s most sophisticated expression of modernism. Combining clarity of form with meticulously executed geometry, it stands as a refined illustration of Mauboussin’s mastery of volume, structure, and light.
