Diamond and Sapphire Poodle Brooch by Oscar Heyman & Brothers, New York, circa 1952
Diamond and Sapphire Poodle Brooch by Oscar Heyman & Brothers, New York, circa 1952
A brooch in the form of a poodle composed of round diamonds holding a calibré-cut sapphire ribbon; mounted in platinum, with assay marks
- 115 round diamonds; total weighing 1.86 carats
- 35 baguette-cut calibré sapphires, total weighing 2.02 carats
- With maker’s mark and number
- Measurements: 1 7/8 × 1 1/4 inches
Certification
Certificate of authenticity from Oscar Heyman dated March 17, 2026, stating the Platinum, Sapphire and Diamond Poodle Brooch was manufactured by Oscar Heyman and Brothers, circa January 1952.
Biography
Oscar Heyman & Brothers has been a legendary American jewelry workshop since the company’s founding on Maiden Lane in New York in 1912. Brothers Oscar, Nathan, and Harry learned jewelry making in Russia supplying objects to Fabergé. In New York, known for their superior craftsmanship and bright gemstones, they created jewelry for some of the foremost retailers including Van Cleef & Arpels, Cartier, Tiffany & Co. and Marcus & Co. Every jewel is made start to finish in their workshops, and the firm has only ever offered jewelry wholesale. They company continues today with the third generation of Heymans.
Significance
By the early 1950s, America was experiencing a booming economy in the aftermath of World War II. Suburban America exploded with growth as did the middle-class leisure activities. Suddenly, families had space, and a lifestyle well-suited to a family dog. The poodle was sought-after as the most glamorous and elegant dog breed. In 1952, Doris Day appeared on the cover of Collier’s with six poodles each dyed a different color and in 1954 Audrey Hepburn’s character had a pet poodle in Sabrina that appeared in publicity photos. It was the height of Hollywood glamour. In middle class America, the poodle skirt was quickly becoming an icon popularized by teens at school dances.
Oscar Heyman brought their meticulous construction and eye for bright gemstones to this cultural icon in 1952. For over a decade Heyman had been known as “the jewelers’ jeweler.” The Heyman brothers loved the appellation, earned at the 1939 World’s Fair in New York when four out of the five glittering displays in the House of Jewels contained pieces from the firm: Cartier, Udall and Ballou, Marcus & Co., and Black, Starr and Frost-Gorham. While the fifth jeweler, Tiffany & Co., did not include pieces by Heyman at the fair, they retailed plenty of goods from the firm over the years. By the 1950s, this legendary firm produced the finest jewels for all the most important American jewelers.
This charming poodle brooch is superbly constructed with great attention given to the smallest of details. The diamond poodle sports the famed Continental Cut, with pompoms on the tail and each leg. The fluffiest areas are noted with bezel-set diamonds that stand out, the flatter areas of the body are pavé set, and the shaved portions of the legs and face are represented by polished platinum. Endearingly, the poodle is carrying a calibré-cut sapphire leash, in a manner any dog owner will recognize as a plea for a long walk. This exquisite brooch is a masterful rendering of a beloved animal and would be a cherished part of any collection.
