Sapphire and Diamond Ring by Cartier, Paris, circa 1946
Sapphire and Diamond Ring by Cartier, Paris, circa 1946
A tall ring centering a prong-set oval Kashmir sapphire surrounded by a halo of round diamonds, with round sapphires set in a gold scale pattern on the sides, the ring wrapped with gold wirework; mounted in 18-karat yellow gold; in a fitted Cartier box
- Signed Cartier, Paris, numbered
- Ring Size 5 1/4
- Measurements: 1 1/2 × 7/8 × 1/2 inches
Certification
American Gemological Laboratories, The Prestige Gemstone Report no. 1152347 dated December 2, 2025, stating that the oval sapphire is natural Corundum of Kashmir origin with no enhancement.
Biography
Cartier was founded in Paris in 1847 by Louis-François Cartier. His three grandsons, Louis, Pierre, and Jacques, built the house into a famous international jewelry empire serving royalty, Hollywood stars, and socialites. Cartier has created some of the most important jewelry and objects of art of the twentieth century with many iconic designs such as mystery clocks, Tutti Frutti jewelry and the Panthère line. In 1983, The Cartier Collection was established with the objective of acquiring important pieces that trace the firm’s artistic evolution. Today, Cartier has 200 stores in 125 countries.
Significance
In 1933 Jeanne Toussaint, a visionary with superb taste, took over as director of the luxury jewelry department at Cartier. She moved the company away from the structured jewels of the Art Deco and created colorful, oversized pieces that brought playfulness to the dark times of World War II. Toussaint remained deeply connected to the design roots of the company—after all she was the inspiration for the panthère—and looked back at previous forms, reviving Chimeras and panthers with modern materials and design. Her exploration of unusual rings was iconic and four of her oversized ring designs were the central feature of a Harper’s Bazaar cover in 1947. The description read “First view of fine rings from Paris. Gold piled high into columns . . . turbans . . . skyscrapers . . . with diamonds, rubies, sapphires. New altitudinous dimension for a ring and the hand that wears it.”
This ring, with its unusual height and fantastic design, can only be described as altitudinous. Toussaint created a playful and whimsical piece centering serious stones and design credibility. The gold wirework wrapping the entire frame is a strong textural element playing against the smooth polished expanse of the rings. It is also tactile, against the hand. The height of the ring is balanced by gold tiles set with sapphires on each side, using the expanse as a canvas. The extraordinary design is juxtaposed with a seemingly traditional center sapphire with diamond halo placed atop the marvelous base. The entire composition comes together to create a singular work of art.
The 1940s began with wartime restrictions limiting platinum and access to stones. Jewelers were pushed to be creative with materials at hand, turning to gold and gemstones in their vault. This ring is a testament to true artistry, demonstrating that limited materials and unlimited creativity can create an iconic form. Created just as the world was emerging from World War II, this jubilant ring is a riotous celebration of the human spirit and would make an essential centerpiece to any collection.
The cover of Harper’s Bazaar, February 1947, featuring “altitudinous” rings by Cartier Paris.
