Radiating Diamond Ear Clips by Pierre Sterlé, Paris, circa 1950

Biography

In the 1940s and 1950s, Parisian jeweler Pierre Sterlé consistently challenged conventional jewelry with his innovative designs inspired by nature. After studying jewelry under his uncle, in 1934, he opened his own workshop on the rue Sainte Anne where he designed and manufactured jewelry for the leading houses in Paris including, Chaumet, Boucheron, and Ostertag. By 1945, Sterlé had opened a third-floor showroom on the avenue de l’Opera where he served elite clientele included King Farouk of Egypt, the Maharani of Baroda, President Vargas of Brazil, and the writer Colette. Whether encrusted in diamonds or with fil d’ange his trademark gold rope fringes, his designs epitomized the dynamics of the 1950s. In 1976, Sterlé closed his store and joined forces with Chaumet where he continued to design modern pieces in his signature style until his death in 1978.

Significance

The 1950s brought on an age of elegant opulence
in design and fashion. After the desolate years of World War II, the economy was booming, and society was ready for luxury again. Christian Dior, the leading Parisian couturier introduced a curvy and flowing silhouette. He tailored clothing to the body with nipped in waist that flared out to full skirts. Many designers were quick to follow in this style and jewelry design changed to accommodate. The jewels of the 1950s had a sense of movement and lightness to them and often incorporated naturalistic themes. Precious and semi-precious stones were set in metal that was worked like fabric with convincing pleating, twisting, and weaving. 

In the 1950s and 1960s, Pierre Sterlé’s clients wore designs from Dior, Balenciaga, Jean Dessés, and later, Yves Saint Laurent. Sterlé developed an innovative style that was full of movement to complement the playful lines and colors of the couturiers. His most famous works are the iconic birds, feathers, and leaves he designed with twisting, undulating, and attenuated forms, like these expressive ear clips. Created in a classic all-white color scheme, the innovation in these ear clips comes from the use of graduated spirals of baguette diamonds emanating from the central pear-shaped diamond creating a feeling of dynamic movement. Sterlé was a master of asymmetrical design and expressive and lively jewel comes to life when placed on the ear. 

In the mid-twentieth century, Sterlé continuously challenged conventional jewelry techniques, creating bold and innovative designs implementing his unique design style. His manipulation of metal made it seem flexible and lively. Both beautiful and incredibly rare because of the brief period he created jewelry in, Sterlé pieces are highly sought after by collectors
today. These wonderful and expressive ear clips reflect the originality of an unparalleled designer.